Fly Tying Recipes, Info, and More

Dry Flies

Tying the CDC Peacock Caddis

I must say I am a bit fanatical when it comes to certain types of flies……CDC in particular.  I will say it again, CDC flies are  the deadliest dry flies I have ever tied to the end of a leader.  The lifelike qualities they have is really unsurpassed, as the fibers have  natural oils on them that not only provide great floatation but also give the illusion of life with all the tiny air bubbles clinging to them.

I would go so far as to say currently I am personally fishing and guiding with about 95% of my dry fly arsenal being CDC.  They just plain work…simple as that.   It is a great material and it has made for some flies that have allowed me to be consistently successful on tough fish while guiding clients and on a daily basis.   The lifelike qualities they have is really unsurpassed, as the fibers have  natural oils on them that not only provide great floatation but also give the illusion of life with all the tiny air bubbles clinging to them.

This pattern is a variation of the ever popular pattern known as a Elk Wing Caddis. This variation of it works and eliminates the need for hackle without compromising floatability.  And is highly visible, even in small sizes.  Tie some up and try them on small streams for wild trout and stocked fish on DH Waters, and also tailwaters like the Watauga and Jackson….they are very effective, we think you will agree.  Tied with a tan wing this fly is among the best dries for a dry/dropper combo you will ever use.

MATERIALS

Hook:  Dry Fly, size 12-18, I like Daichii 110o’s or 1110′s

Thread:  UTC 70   black

Tail:  none

Ribbing:  Wire, palmered over the body for reinforcement

Body: Peacock Herl

Wing:  CDC Natural Dun

Head:  Thread

STEP by STEP TYING DIRECTIONS

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Tying Jeff’s Black Stone

Winter time  in many places and on our small streams and freestone waters stoneflies occur in big numbers in most of our local waters.  They are found in the mountain streams/ areas of Southern Appalachia including NC, TN, VA, and GA.     These flies are common but rarely available to trout, as they live in the fastest areas of a stream and are often inaccesible because they also live on the underside of rocks.  But during high water spates and hatching activity no doubt trout key in on migrating nymphs on their way to the banks to hatch…which is unlike other bugs that hatch in the river.  Trout also key in on egg laying adults, which are the cause of most rising activity.  In any case this fly floats well,  is highly visible, and has quite a bit of  realism when viewed from the trout’s perspective from below.

MATERIALS

Hook:  Dry Fly, size 12-18, I like Daichii 110o’s or 1110′s

Thread:  UTC 70 black

Tail:  Micro fibbetts tied in a ‘V’ and split by a ball of superfine dubbing black

Body:  Black Goose Biot wrapped forward

Hackle:  Grizzly hackle, 4 turns

Wing:   CDC  feather tips

Start the tying thread back of the eye and lay a thread base as shown.

Tie in about 4-5 peacock herl as shown.

Tie in a piece of small wire, copper is my preference, and secure with several thread turns. Advance the thread forward to the 3/4 mark, staying well back of the eye.

Twist herl together and wrap forward as shown, and tie off. Trim excess.

Reverse wrap the wire several turns, which will reinforce the herl body, then tie off. Trim or break off excess wire.

Put together tip to tip about 4-6 CDC feathers, 4 if the feathers have a lot of body or fibers, 6 feathers if they do not. Tie in as shown, but don't trim anything just yet.

Go to the far side of the hook, pull the nearest feather stem alongside the body and make several wraps in front of it so its angled back.

Now repeat this step on the near side. Once you have one stem out to each side, then use several figure 8 or 'X' wraps to secure the feather stems in position.

Pull the stems still over the eye up and bring the thread in front of them and whip finish. Cut thread and apply a tiny amount of cement to the tie off area.

Trim stems starting with the ones over the hook eye first, trim short and "blocky" like an Elk Hair Caddis. Then trim the others as shown pretty short. These stems left sticking out at a 90 degree angle or perpendicular to the hook shank will serve as 'outriggers' or 'stabilizers'.

Finished fly , side view, presses a realistic imprint of a caddis into the surface film, which I believe to be necessary for a good caddis dry fly.

The view from underneath.....looks pretty tasty...lol

@copyright 2011, 2012  Jeff Wilkins Fly Fishing                        all photos and text by Jeff Wilkins 2012


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